Roll up, roll up! For AW21, Loewe is cancelled. At least that’s the headline in thousands of newspapers that the Spanish house has printed and circulated today in the weekend editions of broadsheets around the world. A specially-produced Loewe newspaper is tucked into the Le Figaro, The New York Times, Le Monde et al with the headline ‘THE LOEWE SHOW HAS BEEN CANCELLED’ splashed across its front page. By now it will have reached millions of unsuspecting readers. And therein lies the genius of Jonathan Anderson. He’s fashion’s Cassandra; the well-dressed woman’s Warhol. For the last year he’s come up with inventive alternatives to physical fashion shows, and in doing so has broadened the appeal of them, transforming them from industry-insider events that make an fleeting splash on timelines into enjoy-at-home physical artefacts, symbolic tokens of the seismic changes we’ve experienced during lockdown. Jonathan
Runway nostalgia seems to be reaching a peak this season, with designers who strode headlong into the untrodden territory of the fashion film back in September now returning to the familiar confines of the fashion show — albeit pre-recorded, rather than before an audience in real time. One brand that remains committed to doing things differently, though, is Onitsuka Tiger. Making its debut on the official Milan Fashion Week schedule, the Japanese label debuted its AW21 collection in the form of a fittingly titled film, UNFASHIONSHOW.
Doing as it says on the tin, the video — a slick, neon-bathed studio production — subverts expectations of what you might expect of a designer’s presentation, better resembling “a music video than a fashion show,” says Andrea Pompilio, Onitsuka Tiger’s creative director. Featuring three bright stars of the Milanese scene — singer and performer M¥SS KETA, dancer Gabriele Esposito, and
That feeling of fatedness is reinscribed by Springora the shaper of this tale, who begins the book with references to fairy tales, imagining Snow White refusing the temptation of the shiny red apple, Sleeping Beauty resisting the spindle — impossible, the tacit message. Impossible, too, to contemplate that hungry 14-year-old girl rebuffing G.M. She followed him up the stairs to his sixth-floor flat, with painful docility.
In France, sexual relations between adults and minors under the age of 15 are illegal, but there is no set age of consent, which permits a lighter penalty than rape. Springora asks us what this consent is supposed to look like. What did her teenage self think she was consenting to? How did the experience of adult violence, control and manipulation shape her desires?
The first time they had sex, G.M. could not penetrate her. He sodomized her instead — “just like a
A mattress review website has put out a dream job posting.
SleepJunkie’s chosen Sleeping Beauty will be tasked with becoming an official mattress tester for the brand over a two-month period. A total of three mattresses will be sent to their home for an “honest” and “thorough” evaluation.
The reviewer will report on the sleep quality, mood and comfort they feel when resting on each mattress.
At the end of the two months,
Brandon Maxwell is a fashion outsider. Kind of. Beyond an A-list clientele that boasts every style star from Michelle Obama to Sarah Paulson, the self-proclaimed homebody grew up working in his grandmother’s clothing shop and dutifully watching his mother put on lipstick while he “sat in awe as a young gay kid from Texas who loved pageants.” He’s likable to a tee, which makes him a delight as a judge on Project Runway and beloved by aspiring students on his growing YouTube channel. His clothes speak volumes, literally—queue up Lady Gaga’s Matryoshka doll moment at the 2019 Met Gala—but also, often, in whispers.
The quiet power of his brand is bold, never gimmicky. Yes, his clothes are glamorous, but they lack the arrogance typically associated with the industry, even if his gowns explode in fuchsia satin and Bella Hadid closes the show. With a penchant for shape, form,